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When assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This honour has left the family utterly shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small place achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary achievement.